![]() ![]() Where can I find explosion drawings of the various parts, that is, in relation to one another? I see online the ubiquitous line drawings of "Genuine Hyundai Parts," but they're only of individual parts themselves. What are the proper Hyundai voltage and resistance tolerances when I check the sensors with a multimeter? And, maybe fabricate and insert breakout electrical wiring at the sensor connection? Where are the ABS module and plugs for the sensor cables located? (2.4L AT) ![]() How do we know which of the wheels are getting the false activation signals? I've removed, wiped clean, and reinstalled the factory front speed sensors and inspected the reluctor ring teeth for cracks, damage, or debris. The ESP (electronic stability program, aka ESC) light flickers when I force it to activate on slick surfaces as a test. ![]() Otherwise, we get a code that comes and goes about the evap system. At least none taken from a common OBDII reader. We're not getting the ABS malfunction indicator light nor any related codes. Pads look good still, calipers were rebuilt a couple years ago (~30K mi ago) ![]() Hard braking from high speed is very rare. We drive the car in light duty traffic conditions almost exclusively. This false activation happens now at least two out of three attempts at braking and might happen two or three times for a fraction of a second during a single slow braking effort. It's normal for the strength (amplitude) of the signal generated by an ABS sensor to gradually diminish as wheel speed decreases. On slippery surfaces the ABS works fine, seemingly as it should. When the ABS kicks in at low speeds on dry pavement, the usual cause is a weak signal from an ABS speed sensor. The phenomenon goes away upon harder application of the brakes. The activation might last a fraction of a second (a quick "berp") and occasionally up to just over a second, as a "berrrrrrrp." There's not enough effect on performance for it to pull to one side. We can feel the ABS engaging through the pedal and hear it as the proper "rapid gurgling" sound. The anti-lock braking system activates intermittently under lighter duty braking on dry surfaces. I think that applied to older trucks, but do not overlook things like that.~185K mi, started during snowy, wet winter There were also some Ford models that had wheel speed signal interference problems from spark plug wires routed too close to speed sensor wires. Look for a cracked tone ring, metal filings sticking to the magnet in a wheel speed sensor, or rust under a sensor that is pushing it away from the tone ring. You can expect to find the cause of false activation to be something making the computer think one wheel is slowing too quickly. A mechanical problem related to a speed sensor would be detected once the car is moving. An electrical problem would be detected as soon as the ignition switch was turned on, and the yellow light would flicker off after its six-second self-test, then turn right back on again. Since the yellow warning light is not turning on, we know there is no electrical fault, including cut wires to the wheel speed sensors, so you can forget about that. In particular, watch for a wheel speed sensor signal dropping out. Since you have a scanner, use it to view live sensor data during a test-drive. My girl friend thinks this is a lot of money and wants to know if it will fix it? My last resort is to replace the ECM which includes the anti yaw and ABS processing information. So I replaced the ABS module/valve body/motor assembly. So I checked the wheel bearings and abs sensors. I checked all the wiring from the ABS module and out to the sensors.I found no rubbed wires I did not ohm out all the wires. Drove it and it still gave me an ABS pedal. Then I went to the scanner and found I had a problem in the l/f. Well I discovered that almost every time I stepped on the brake the ABS activated and gave me a pulsing pedal. (I should have drove it from the beginning). Looked on line and found there was a lot of problems with the brake boosters on these vehicles. She came home the next day and said the brakes are still grinding. Replaced all the pads and put new rotors on too. Checked the brake pads and the front brakes looked kind of thin and the rear pads were over half worn. ![]()
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